Latest Update 29th July 2016.
Rosemary
- I grow Rosemary as a culinary hetrb, as habitat for predatory and pollinating insects, and as an attractive herbaceous border plant.
- The photograph shows one of my Rosemary plants growing healthy in the under-story of my Olive tree with a number of other herbs and flowering perennials.
- Rosemary propagates easily from cuttings, and I strike a few each winter in my cuttings propagator.
- They are perennial and if you give them a haircut each spring, they will stay compact and look good for many years.
- Rosemary is an important ingredient in my dried herb mix which I store in glass jars. I use it all the time on steamed and roast vegetables, but its a useful flavouring in preserves and meat dishes.
- I find Rosemary is usually pest free in my garden.
Details.
- Variety: Rosmarinus Officinalis.
- Family Group: Lamiaceae.
- Garden bed type: Drip line irrigation.
- Recommended Soil pH. 7.0 - 7.8.
- Minimum Sun per Day: 3 hours.
- Plant Spacings (centres): 500mm.
- Climate: Warm Temperate.
- Geography: Southern Hemisphere.
Nutrition.
- This food is very low in Soium and Cholesterol.
- It is also a
good source of Vitamin B6, Magnesium, Potassium and Copper, and a very good source of Dietary
Fiber, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Folate, Calcium, Iron, and Manganese.
- More from nutrition data.self.com.
Growing Conditions:
- Rosemary grows best in full sun.
- It prefers sandy soil but grows well in most healthy organic soils.
- It grows well in hot dry conditions.
Soil Preparation.
- Select a space for your new plant where rosemary has not been grown for some time. Clear previous crop residues and mulch and add a 60mm top dressing of homemade compost. Cover with a 50mm thick layer of straw mulch.
- Leave the bed for 4
weeks to build up worm and microbial activity.
Growing Instructions.
- My original rosemary plants were grown from seed, but it is so easy to propagate from cuttings, that I no longer buy or save seed.
- To do this, choose your strongest most vigorous plant as a source.
- Take
100mm long cuttings from your strongest most vigorous plant as it starts to grow in spring.
- Remove the lower
leaves except for those in the top 15mm of the cutting.
Plant the cuttings 50mm deep in a propagator.
- The propagator's compost layer and constant moisture stimulates root growth, so I don't need to use rooting powder.
- Once the cuttings start to grow vigorously, move the mulch on your prepared bed out of the way and transplant them.
- Water them in and keep the soil moist until they are established. Replace the mulch but keep it away from their stems. Follow up with a foliar spray of aerated compost tea every 4 weeks.
- If left to
its own devices a rosemary plant will become woody after a couple of
years, however, regular pruning will extend its productive life to 4 years.
- You should prune the established plant in spring after flowering. Remove the flowers and cut the green growth back by 1/3rd. Do not cut back into old wood.
Harvesting and Storage.
- Rosemary can
be harvested at any time, but don't strip too many leaves at once or you could check the plant's growth. Its best to maintain several plants and harvest a few stalks from each plant.
- Begin using the leaves as soon as the plant is large enough to spare
some.
- You can air-dry rosemary in small loose bunches hung in a cool, dry, dark place or dry them in a dehydrator.
- Once the leaves are dry, strip them from their branches and crush them (I use a mortar and pestle). Store them in an airtight glass container ready for use.
- I premix them with dried thyme, sweet marjoram, sage, basil and oregano before use.
Organic Pest Control.
- Slugs and snails.
- To keep slugs and snails at bay, I grow my herbs in a drip irrigated raised bed, and run copper tape around it 100mm off the ground.
- Copper tape is a
very effective barrier as the slugs and snails get a small electric
shock when they come into contact with it, and they retreat to
less hostile surroundings.
- Occasionally
I get one or two juvenile snails in my raised beds. I believe they get
into the bed as eggs though the compost heap. When this happens, I use
a few iron chelate snail baits to round them up. Only use the bare minimum to
do the job.
- Aerated compost tea strengthens the plants foliage against whitefly damage.
- Control any
infestations by spraying your crop thoroughly with organic horticultural oil (Eco-oil in Australia).
- Spray again in a few days
to ensure second generation whitefly do not survive.
- Use the same method as described above for whitefly.
- Regular
applications of aerated compost tea boost the natural defences of
plants by colonising the leaf surfaces with beneficial microbes.
They defend the plant against airborne pests and diseases.
- Similarly,
proper soil preparation including regular applications of home made
compost boosts the community of beneficial
microbes, which defend the plants roots against plant pathogens.
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